Which Mac Do You Need?

When you start shopping for a Macintosh (or Mac) computer, there are a lot of things to consider: Laptop or Desktop? Which computer chip? How much memory? How much storage? Let’s focus on these and other features to consider.

But first, let’s consider the most important factor: How will you be using your computer?

Who Are You?

You might be a person who does light computing. Email, web surfing, shopping, and a video call with family and friends from time to time.

You might be a hobbyist who does the light computing tasks as well as photo editing and throwing together a video compilation from time to time. You might be a serious hobbyist who also edits complex videos with multiple clips, transitions, and color correction from time to time.

You might be a professional who relies heavily on your Mac to help you generate professional graphics, audio, and video projects so you can get paid from time to time.

To be honest, if you’re a professional-level Mac user, you know what you need. So this article really isn’t intended for you. Go get the heavy-hitting machine and go forth to create great things!

For the rest of us, you might be wondering how much power you need for your everyday tasks. You might be wondering if you need to max out the options to be certain you can edit your home videos in iMovie. This article is for you.

Upgradability

If you’re coming from the PC world, you’re familiar with upgrading computer components after you buy a computer. Apple hardware is different. Essentially all components are permanently assembled into the computer. Hard drives and memory are often soldered to the motherboards, and batteries are not user-replaceable. This allows Apple computers to be smaller, lighter, and more reliable. And this practice is making its way to the PC world, too, especially for laptops.

So it’s important to understand the different components that will go into your Mac, because you’re going to be stuck with them.

Desktop versus Laptop

Are you going to do your computing at one place? If this is the case, a desktop computer should be considered.

Are you more comfortable doing your computing at different places in your home? And do you like to pack up your computer and take it with you to coffee shops or to work? If so, then a laptop will likely be your best option.

For laptops, weight should be considered. Generally, models with smaller screens (13″ and 14″) are lighter at about 3 lbs (1.4 kg). Models with larger screens are bigger and heavier, so they’re not as easy to pack up and take with you and the weigh in at about 4 lbs (1.8 kg). An extra pound doesn’t sound like a lot … until you’re carrying it for a while. Trust me.

Preferred Display Size

MacBook laptops and iMac all-in-one desktops come with their own displays. And Apple uses premium displays and technologies. Sizes range from 13″ to 24″, and they’re gorgeous.

If you have your own display or have a specific display requirement, then Apple also offers the Mac mini and Mac Studio desktop computers to which you can attach your own display. There’s also a Mac Pro, but it is expensive and not intended for mortals like you and me.

Keep in mind that all Mac desktops and laptops can support multiple displays. You can attach a 4K monitor to your MacBook, and use it with the built-in display. You can have two or more monitors connected to your Mac Studio. Depending on the Mac model, there may be many more possible display configurations.

Form Factor Performance 

Historically, desktops have usually performed better than their laptop counterparts. Desktops are plugged directly into a power outlet, and they dissipate heat better than laptops which allows manufacturers to use larger, more powerful components. Laptops needed to be lightweight and run on batteries for several hours. Therefore, computing components generally needed to be small and very power efficient forsaking performance.

In 2020, Apple started using its own processing chips. The company’s CPU designs offer incredible efficiency resulting in very long battery life for laptops, and the computing performance is inarguably stellar.

Some benchmark tests report some cases of diminished performance in MacBooks due to thermal throttling. The Apple laptops have very small enclosures which challenge heat dispersion, but the lowered performance is negligible. In the vast majority of computing tasks, you won’t notice any difference in performance between Mac desktops and laptops.

Connectivity

Apple’s lower-end models offer fewer ports. The number and variety of ports increase as you move up the Mac model lines.

The MacBook Air has just a couple of ports. The 14″ and 16″ models of the MacBook Pro have many more. The Mac mini has seven ports. The Mac Studio has twelve ports, and they’re more capable than the Mac mini’s ports.

So consider how many devices you’ll want to physically attach to your computer. How many monitors? How many peripherals like keyboards, mice, and printers? Is having an SD card reader important? Consider these carefully. And keep in mind you can use port expansion dongles (such as USB hubs) on computers with fewer ports. For example, with an SD card reader dongle, you can use your camera’s SD cards on your Mac mini.

Storage

Apple’s storage options are painfully expensive. There’s no way around that. But you are getting quality. The solid state drives (SSDs) in Macs are very fast and very reliable over a long period of time.

Get as much storage as you need if you can afford it. You can save money with a smaller drive, but feeling limited for data storage might repeatedly frustrate you. And the good feeling from cost savings could evaporate quickly.

For exclusively light duty computing, the smallest storage option could easily suffice.

If you store a large music collection or have a lot of digital photos, then you will want more storage. You might want significantly more storage. As a rule of thumb, I suggest discovering how much storage you currently use (say, 400 GB), then double it (so 800 GB), and then round up to the next storage option (1 TB).

I would argue that storage should be the first option to consider upgrading when configuring your Mac. If you can afford only one upgrade, make a storage upgrade.

CPUs and GPUs

As mentioned earlier, Apple debuted their own processor chips in 2020. And they really are great. As of July 2022, Apple has a full M1 line of chips and a single M2 chip. The line-up is pretty straight-forward.

  • M1 – 8 core CPU, 7 or 8 core GPU, 16 core Neural Engine
  • M2 – 8 core CPU, 8 or 10 core GPU, 16 core Neural Engine
  • M1 Pro – 8 or 10 core CPU, 14 or 16 GPU, 16 core Neural Engine
  • M1 Max – 10 core CPU, 24 or 32 GPU, 16 core Neural Engine
  • M1 Ultra – 20 core CPU, 48 core GPU, 32 core Neural Engine

As you go up the model lines, you get some more CPU power. The difference between 8 and 10 CPU cores will be negligible unless you’re a business/professional user. Also notice that the M2 chip is not “twice as good” as the M1 chip. Don’t let the “2” mislead you.

Also, as you go up the line, you get more graphics power. This doesn’t translate to running higher resolutions or physically larger monitors. This graphics power means you will be able to tackle very complex graphics and video editing tasks with greater ease, and you can export your videos very, very quickly. Even the base chips can handle most complex editing tasks even for many creative professionals. So keep this in mind if you’re a hobbyist user.

For the simplest everyday computing tasks, the base M1 and M2 chips will effortlessly handle them. In the entry-level models of the MacBook Air and the iMac, Apple offers these chips with one or two fewer graphics cores. For this level of computer, you will not notice a performance difference. If you’re offered this lower-end chip, then consider it and save a little money.

The Pro model will offer better graphics and video performance for the hobbyist artist and video editor.

The Max model will provide extra performance for the computer user who uses graphics tools and performs video editing more frequently.

The Ultra model is overkill for anyone who is not running a graphics and/or video editing business. If you’re not in this league, then do not consider the Ultra chip. If you’re wondering whether you’re in this league, then you’re not.

Briefly, I want to provide a little more perspective on GPUs. For me, I really appreciate editing videos where I can freely move the playhead anywhere in the timeline (quickly or slowly) without dropping frames. This performance can be easily achieved with a M1 Pro chip with 14 GPU cores.

Neural Engine

Now, I won’t pretend to fully understand neural engines, but I know a little bit. App developers can leverage the neural engine to achieve some impressive results. It can help artists select subjects even on very complex backgrounds by using artificial intelligence. I think of it as the computing element capable of fuzzy logic. And I know there’s an engineer out there who’s probably ready to smack me for improperly using the term “fuzzy logic.”

Unified Memory (formerly Random Access Memory)

Apple include computer memory on the same chip as the processor. The overall chip architecture enables very fast access among the key computer components, and it results in a computer that runs very fast. The memory is shared among all those components, so Apple calls it Unified Memory.

For many models, 8 GB of Unified Memory is the entry-level configuration. For all everyday tasks, and even some hobbyist-level tasks. This amount of memory is adequate.

For computer users who run a few truly professional apps (graphics and video) at once, 16 GB is likely to perform very well.

When it comes to 32 GB of memory or more, those Macs are ready to work smoothly with many top-level professional graphics apps as well as video editors with extremely complex timelines (4K video clips, color correction, and transitions). If you are wondering whether you need 32 GB or more of Unified Memory, then 16 GB will likely serve you well.

Mac Models to Consider in 2022

So after reviewing all this information, which model, generally speaking, is best for which type of computer user?

Well, if we’re speaking generally, let’s speak in terms of Macs with standard configurations for each of the types of users: Everyday users, Hobbyist users, and Professional/Business users.

Everyday users: Aim for the MacBook Air, iMac, or Mac mini. With Apple’s chips in these models, they are essentially powerhouses for everyday computing.

Hobbyist users: Focus on a Mac mini with an upgrade of 16 GB Unified Memory or a MacBook Pro with an M1 Pro processor.

Serious Hobbyist user: If you just know your Mac will need a bit more gusto to do your tasks, then look closely at the MacBook Pro with the M1 Max processor or the Mac Studio. Both have a heavy hitting processor with 32 GB of Unified Memory. If you need more than this, then you’re probably a business owner in the graphics and/or video field.

I have a quick warning for the 13″ MacBook Pro. This model sits in a weird place. I argue that most people should not consider this model. Consider the MacBook Air with its similar specs, or consider the MacBook Pro models with M1 Pro chips. Unless the unique feature (the Touch Bar) of the 13″ MacBook Pro exactly meet your needs, other models are likely a better solution.

I hope this discussion has given you a bit of insight into each area that affects a Mac’s performance. If you feel you need to fine tune your thoughts before making a decision, reach out to an Apple Specialist. Make an appointment in a Apple Store if one is around you, or reach out to them via the Apple website.

All the best to you in your Mac purchase!

HP PageWide Printing Problem [UPDATED]

UPDATE Nov 1, 2021: A recent firmware update for the HP PageWide 477 appears to have fixed the printing problem. The firmware is version MAVEDWPP1N001.2142A.00, and it is dated 2021-10-13.

Are you a Mac user who is experiencing a bug when printing from Microsoft Office applications to your HP PageWide printer? Even when you save from Office as a PDF and then try to print that PDF?

You are probably getting boxed question marks instead of text characters.

If so, the this might help.

A Laborious Workaround, But It Works.

This allows me to print without uninstalling my PageWide print drivers. I still need my printer’s scanning functionality, so replacing my PageWide drivers with a simple PostScript driver is not an option.

  1. With an Office document open, click the File pull-down menu and click Print.
  2. In the Print dialog box, find and click the PDF drop-down menu in the lower left.
  3. From that menu, click Save as PostScript.
  4. In the Save dialog box, provide a name for this file (maintain the .ps extension), and save it to a temporary location (perhaps the Desktop).
  5. Once the file saves, find it and right-click it.
  6. Hover over Open With, the click Preview.

The Preview app will open that PostScript file and convert it to a PDF. Print from the Preview app. Important: This conversion process from PostScript to PDF will allow the Office document to print to your PageWide printer. Printing to PDF from the Office app will still print the boxed question marks.

After you’re done printing, you can delete that PostScript file.

My 2 Cents

Dear HP: Shame on you for preventing customers of your expensive printers from printing Office documents. It’s completely unacceptable.

Security is Probably Why: A couple of months back, Microsoft had to completely overhaul it’s print mechanism due to a significant security threat. I suspect this could be the root reason why we poor Mac users are dealing with this nasty print bug. I could be totally wrong, though. But the coincidence seems suspicious.

Fix: macOS Mail Disconnects from Gmail

I use macOS Mail in Catalina, and I noticed a frequent issue with my Gmail account disconnecting and not updating messages for that account. This would occur at least daily.

My research suggests that this repeated disconnection could be related to the fact that I did not have the Google Calendar synchronizing (I actually use iCloud Calendar for better Siri integration). After I configured my Mac to sync the Google Calendar, the connection issue with Gmail seems to have been resolved.

But what if you don’t want the Google Calendar entries cluttering your macOS Calendar? Thankfully, that’s a fairly easy fix, too.

Sync Your Google Calendar

  1. On your Mac, open System Preferences.
  2. Click Internet Accounts.
  3. Click Gmail.
  4. Verify that Calendars are set to synchronize. If needed, click to add that checkmark.

Hide Google Calendar Entries

  1. On your Mac, open macOS Calendar.
  2. In the upper left, find and click the Calendars button.
  3. In the list, uncheck all the boxes under the Gmail section.

Hope this works for you!

Use AppCleaner to Really Uninstall an App

Price: FREE
Developer Website

Removing apps from a Mac is very simple. You just move it to the Trash.

But what about all the supporting data and settings your computer uses with that app? Surprisingly, these little tidbits are usually left behind. And after a while, these little tidbits add up and can create performance or storage issues. And manually removing these small files requires rooting around in a set of very unintuitive folder structures that are actually hidden by default.

AppCleaner makes all this drudgery unnecessary.

Open AppCleaner. Open the Application folder in Finder. Then just drag and drop the app you want to remove onto the AppCleaner window.

AppCleaner will generate a report that includes the app and its supporting elements. Oftentimes, AppCleaner will not include the supporting elements that hold your custom personal settings. These elements would be beneficial if you were to install the app again later. If you don’t plan to install again, you can just check those remaining items to be included in the removal process.

Click Remove. Provide your Mac password if prompted. And you’re done, and it’s gone.

I’m getting rid of an outdated installation of Reeder

2018 Mac mini Disappoints [Updated]

2018 Mac mini next to a Shame meter

On October 30, 2018, Apple debuted an updated Mac mini. The Cupertino kids did an admirable job updating the product, and the new price ($799, previously $499) seemed within normal Apple tolerances.

But the devil is in the specs.

If this is a desktop computer, the entry level specs aren’t impressive. And once you bump the options into mid-level desktop territory, you’re in for sticker shock.

In my opinion, a desktop computer serves as a desktop with these minimum specifications: A Core i5, 8 GB RAM, and 1 TB storage.

Let’s compare’s Apple entry level device with something more serviceable:

Mac mini
(entry level)
Mac mini
(desktop minimum)
Core i3 (4 core)Core i5 (6 core)
8 GB RAM8 GB RAM
128 GB SSD1 TB SSD
$799$1,699

Bumping the specs in just 2 areas adds $900 to the cost. Does upgrading a processor and solid-state storage really cost more than two entry level Mac mini devices?

I had hoped that the cost with the upgrades I sought would have been $1,199. If it had, I’d have placed my order.

Apple gives lip service to creating devices that provide the experience its customers desire. That gets interpreted as lip service when you look at the paltry entry level specs.

C’mon, Apple. You shouldn’t seek to fleece your customers to provide the expected “experience” you propose.

UPDATE … At the end of last summer (2019), I pulled the trigger on a Mac mini. I bought an Apple refurbished model with an i7 processor, 16 GB of RAM, and 1 TB of storage. The savings was close to $400 from new retail. Not bad.

Still, I feel Apple continues to offer utterly lacking storage options in its base Mac models. Living with 128 GB or even 256 GB of storage is not an acceptable “experience.” Solid state storage costs have dropped dramatically, and Apple should offer better base options to its customers.

Keyboard and Mouse Utilities For macOS That Windows Users Will Love

Finger at Keyboard

A year ago, I decided to move from Windows to Mac. As an iPhone user, this made sense. My mobile and desktop computing resources integrated very well and solved a lot of workarounds and incompatibilities that plagued me as a Windows user. And to be brutally honest, I got tired of fixing my Windows machine. Macs are not perfect (by a LONG shot), but they’re predictable which makes them more dependable.

Problem

Being a long-time Windows user, I brought a lot of muscle memory problems and habits with me as I started the Mac. Since I must use Windows for work, I have a KVM to share keyboard, mouse, and monitors. So I use a Windows keyboard and PC mouse with my Mac.

Here were my biggest problems:

  1. I like using the Forward and Back buttons on my mouse, especially for navigating websites. (On Macs, these mouse buttons are dead.)
  2. I prefer natural scrolling on the MacBook trackpad and directional scrolling on the mouse wheel. (On Macs, you are prevented from configuring these differently. It’s bewildering.)
  3. I like to press the Home and End keys to go to the beginning and end of a text line, respectively. (On Macs, these actions take the cursor to the top or bottom of the message body.)
  4. Closely related to the above, I like to press Shift+Home and Shift+End to select (aka, highlight) text to the beginning and end of a text string respectively. (On Macs, these actions take the text selection to the top or bottom of the message body.)

As any Windows user will tell you, Macs don’t work that way.

Solutions

I tried to get used to it. I really did. But in the end muscle memory won, and Mac lost. But not without some help.

Scroll Reverser

Scroll Reverser Preferences Panel

This utility is simple, and it’s free.

Scroll Reverser breaks the connection between the mouse scroll setting and the trackpad scroll setting. It allows me to have directional scrolling when I use mouse, and natural scrolling when I use the trackpad. Perfect!

Learn more about Scroll Reverser.

BetterTouchTool

BetterTouchTool Configuration Panel

This utility is a fairly simple power user’s tool, and it costs $4.99 (or more if you wish) with a 45-day trial period.

BetterTouchTool (BTT) allows you to override default actions on your keyboard, mouse (including Magic Mouse), trackpad, MacBook Pro TouchBar, and even the Siri Remote. I leverage the keyboard and mouse functionality. My mouse navigation buttons work in any application with a navigation history (web browsers, Finder, etc.). My keyboard brings familiar behavior to the Home and End keys. What a relief!

Quick Tip: Like any power user tool, the interface could be confusing to some. When adding a new shortcut or key sequence, click into the text fields and then press the keys. BTT will record the key or key combination. As you click into the text fields, you are also offered commands in a pop-up list. At first, I thought those listed commands were the only ones available.

Learn more about BetterTouchTool.

Add Outlook.com Email to macOS

Outlook and Settings Icons

The process to configure a connection to Outlook.com in macOS is not intuitive for whatever reason only Microsoft and Apple know. I found several outdated and unhelpful articles that had me going nowhere.

So here’s the magic solution: Use App-Specific Password. Create that first, then configure macOS.

To generate an app-specific password:

  1. Go to account.microsoft.com and log in
  2. On the Account bar (or tap Account on you mobile device), and click or tap Security & privacy.
  3. Find the link titled More security settings and click/tap it.
  4. Under App Passwords, find and click/tap Create new app password.
  5. An app password will be generated. Use this to log into Outlook.com email service from within macOS Mail.

How do you do that? This is how:

  1. In macOS Mail, click Mail in the task bar.
  2. Click Add Account…
  3. Click Other Mail Account and click Continue.
  4. Enter the Outlook.com email address and then enter the app-specific password you generated in the previous steps. Click Sign In.

After a few moments, you should be good to go.

PS: Why is it a breeze to set up an Outlook account in iOS but such a mystery in macOS?